Drinking with Chinese hosts can be an unforgettably good time or can be made awkward by miscommunication and drunkenness. Traditionally, the Chinese thought it “better to make a hole in the stomach than a hole in friendship”, meaning that friendship should come before cirrhosis. Men who did not drink were thought not trustworthy, whereas women were not expected to drink at all. These ideas are becoming old-fashioned but may survive to some extent in the backwaters where the Chinese may be less aware of western habits. In the major cities, many movers and shakers now do business banquets without the need for inebriation at all!

The Chinese enjoy toasting, and will do so by saying gan bei, literally “dry cup”,meaning down in one. Toasts can and often should be done on a group basis or between individuals. It is considered rude to refuse a toast. But a “medical condition” is the best excuse.

Beer in China is generally inexpensive and of good quality. China’s top beer, Tsingtao, was established by industrious Germans during their sixteen-year stay in east China’s Shandong province. Most areas of China produce their own local beers which are typically lagers. But a black beer trend is emerging, led by Tsingtao and Xinjiang Brewery.

When the Chinese order beer, the host will typically pour beer for guests and continue to order until it seems everyone has had more than their fill. Chinese beer is typically low in alcohol content and it is easy to reach your limit from bloating as opposed to drunkenness. If your host seems intent on making you drink past your limit, make sure to drink plenty of water or tea, and only take small sips of your beer.

Baijiu (literally, “white liquor”) is the most dangerous drink in China. Baijiu comes in many varieties with varying degrees of alcoholic content. It is generally made from rice but can also be made from sorghum, millet or other ingredients. Despite having an alcoholic content similar to western liquors, a fiery shot of baijiu packs a punch that seems to go beyond other liquors. Think of it as China’s answer to Mezcal. Baijiu can be extremely cheap (a few renminbi for a 750ml bottle) or extremely expensive (as much as US$100 for a 750ml bottle). The most famous brands are Maotai and Wuliangye. Typically, it is served in small cups or bowls, the size of small egg-cups.

Caution is advised during your first experience with this spirit. Be aware that once you have drunk one glass of baijiu, you may have to continue toasting, often in rounds of threes, as it is not accepted practice to stop at just one small glass.

Grape Wine: Chinese are quickly developing a taste for western wines, and domestically produced wines are improving rapidly. The most acceptable Chinese wines to western palates – and the most widespread – are the Dynasty and Great Wall labels; other domestic wines may taste too sweet or acidic. Fine wine from around the world is available in China in the major cities, but don’t be shocked if your host mixes it with Sprite or some other soft drink.

Western liquor is available at many bars and upscale restaurants in China. Outside of major cities the Chinese have yet to take to western spirits, although they have caught on in cities like Shanghai. Whisky, cognac and tequila are frequently the drinks of choice when the Chinese are looking to have a night out at a bar.

Smoking
China is heaven for smokers and hell for non-smokers, as there are few recognized non-smoking areas, though this is slowly changing. Chinese cigarettes are generally stronger than their western counterparts, with light cigarettes a concept that has yet to gain widespread acceptance.

Many Chinese view smoking as a social activity and offer cigarettes to anyone nearby whenever they reach for one for themselves. They are particularly generous with cigarettes during meals, whenever there is drinking and especially when entertaining foreign guests.

As with food and alcohol, it is a good move to accept offers of cigarettes, and it is not important if a guest finishes or enjoys the cigarette. Often the easiest way to get around smoking is simply to accept the cigarette and light it, holding it and ashing it until it is gone and then declining the second offer.

Visitors who have kicked the nicotine habit may wish to avoid even lighting one cigarette, in which case it may be best to express gratitude for the offer and then explain that they used to be smokers and have since quit. This is generally accepted by most Chinese as a valid excuse. Alternatively, you could accept, but say you will smoke it later.

If you are a smoker, offering cigarettes is one good way to join in, and foreign brands will generally be accepted with alacrity. China produces some good quality cigarettes, the top brands even matching imported brands price-wise. Yunnan tobacco is considered the best. Cigar smoking is catching on fast too and the top bars in Beijing and Shanghai now have cigar menus or even cigar lounges.